Tuesday, September 19, 2017

Still Surfing

Even though I don't like the heat, I was a little bummed to see summer coming to an end, and naturally, summer (to me) means being hot, discomfort and whining included. Heat, however, can be a welcome thing when you're diving into the water. In fact, if it's not at least 80 degrees outside, I'm not that inspired to go swimming. Sure, a wetsuit helps, but nothing beats going into the water on a nice hot day.

With that in mind, after a brief cool spell, which for the record was very nice, the heat returned just as we were hitting the surf again after a short break. Traveling to see my mom and various other commitments took us away from the waves, but now we're back and ready to surf. We've been going at a pretty good rate, shooting for a couple times a week, even though it's a trek to get there. The trip is not as bad since we've done it so much, and now we have a killer routine where we paddle into the lineup, surf for at least an hour, ideally two, and then pick up killer burritos at Las Olas. The surf was small on Thursday but this past Sunday there were some head-high sets coming in. It was fun and our surfing is definitely progressing nicely. It would be nice to get a few more trips in before it's too cold, but we'll see.

One complication is that I'm pretty darn tired for the drive home, and eating a fat burrito doesn't help because I get so sleepy. I've found that the best thing is to eat only about 1/3 of the burrito and then sip an ice coffee all the way home. It's the only way I can keep my head clear, and even that doesn't work every time. I almost need to pull over and take a phat nap, but sometimes that's asking too much. Then again, do what you have to do, right?

For now I'm pretty stoked with how surfing has gone. N is into it, A is sort-of psyched but somewhat ambivalent, and I'm stoked. It has completely changed my POV about summer - I used to dread the heat but now it just means that it's time to hit the beach. I love when that happens.

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Until the next time, thanks for reading, and thanks to Coastalwatch Australia for the pic.

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